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תקציר הפרק הקודם: גדי מצטרף לצוותו של דוקטור טייפו ומגלה שלהיות יהודי ושמאלי הן סגולות לגאונות.

 

 

שכונת מגורי הרופאים נראתה כסובלת מפגעי הזמן. זוהמה והזנחה ניבטו מכול עבר, הבניינים הגבוהים עומדים דהויים ומאובקים, קרעים בצבעי הקירות חושפים נתחים של בטון אפרורי. שקיות ניילון ועיתונים קישטו את גינות הבתים, נעים עם משבי הרוח בין עשבים שוטים, שיחים יבשים וצואת אנוש. לא היה מקום לחיתולים באסכולת הפאנג שוו'י המקומית ועוללים התהלכו ברחובות בייג'ינג כאשר אחוריהם חשופים לאור השמש, כורעים בכול פינת מחמד ומרוקנים את בני מעיהם באין מפריע.

"השכונה נבנתה רק לפני שלוש שנים," מר צ'אן אמר ביום בו הוביל אותנו לדירה.

"לא יאמן," טסה לחשה לי. "המקום נראה כאילו חגג יובל לפני שנים רבות."

בכביש הגישה לשכונה ישבה לה גברת זקנה כשסרט אדום כרוך סביב זרועה. היא צמצמה את עיניה כשעברנו לצידה, עוקבת אחרינו במבטה.

"הגברת הזאת שומרת על הסדר והביטחון בשכונה," מר צ'אן הסביר.

"אתה צוחק, לא?" חייכתי אליו. "היא בת שלוש מאות שנה לפחות-. מה היא תעשה אם יבוא איזה שיכור מופרע או גנב? הרי רק מההתרגשות היא תחטוף התקף לב במקום."

"היא לא צריכה לקום או לרדוף אחרי אף אחד," צ'אן אמר בנחת. "תאמין לי, צרחה אחת ממנה ותוך שנייה תהיה פה כול השכונה."

מגוחך ככול שיישמע, כנראה שהשיטה הייתה מוצלחת. גם בשכונות אחרות בבייג'ינג הותקנה אותה מערכת אזעקה.

ההזנחה השכונתית לא פסחה על הבניין אליו עברנו. אולם הכניסה הצחין מניחוחות אשפה ותמיד חסרו מנורות בחדר המדרגות, דבר שהפך את הטיפוס למורכב מאוד לאחר שעות של שתייה אל תוך הלילה. כמובן שהייתה מעלית אך היא התקלקלה לפרקים ועבדה רק בין שבע בבוקר לאחת עשרה בלילה. בשעות הלילה הייתה החשכה יזומה בכול האזור לטובת חיסכון באנרגיה.

ארתורו, שנהג להשתכר בסופי השבוע, סבל במיוחד מהטיפוס במדרגות.

"העליה ברגל היא סיכון נפשות," הוא התלונן באוזני. "עוד יבוא היום ואני אשבור פה את הראש."

"אז למה שלא תחזור לפני שעת ההחשכה?" שאלתי. "כשהמעלית עוד עובדת?"

ארתורו נאנח.

"כי זה לא משנה," הוא אמר. "המעלית בדרך כלל מקולקלת וחדר המדרגות תמיד חשוך. רק בסין תמצא רופאים שגונבים מנורות מחדרי המדרגות."

"ארתורו מטפס כמו רקדן למבדה שיכור," גיאר הסבירה. "הוא עולה שתי קומות ומתגלגל אחת לאחור."

אהבנו מאוד את החדר שקיבלנו ואף את שכננו לדירה, מר צ'יבה, המורה ליפנית. מר צ'יבה, בחור בשנות השלושים המוקדמות, היה אדם מופנם ושקט בעל הבעה קודרת שנע כמו צל בדירה, מופיע בחטף ואז שב ונעלם בחדרו.

נוכחותו של מר צ'יבה הורגשה רק בשעות הבוקר המוקדמות, כשהיה מתעורר ומסתגר בחדר האמבטיה לטובת טקס ניקיון הגוף. נראה היה כי מר צ'יבה ספג את מנהגי ההיגיינה הסינים ואף התעלה על המקור. בליל קולות מבחילים נשמע כל בוקר מחדר האמבטיה; ניקוי גרון שהרעיד את הקירות והטלות ליחה שהכו בכיור בזעם; נשיפות עזות כשל פר מיוחם ונפיחות מסמרות שיער.

טסה הייתה יושבת חבוקה בזרועותיי לכול אורך הטקס, ידיה סוגרות בחוזקה על אוזנייה והבעת קבס מעטרת את פניה החיוורים.

בוקר אחד, לאחר תכנון קפדני, העזנו להיכנס לפניו אל חדר האמבטיה, מקווים לסיים ולחמוק מהדירה בטרם יתחיל במעלליו. לדאבוננו, הדבר לא עצר את הופעתו של מר צ'יבה והוא פשוט העביר את טקס ההיגיינה אל כיור המטבח. הניסיון היה טראומטי ובעקבותיו, נמנעה טסה מהמטבח ימים רבים.

חלון חדרנו שבקומה החמש עשרה השקיף אל מבני ואגפי בית החולים ואל הרחוב הסואן שניצב לפניו. מכוניות ואופניים שעטו בכביש ללא הפסקה, מדרכות הרחוב הומות אדם תודות לשורת מסעדות מאולתרות שמוקמו בצפיפות משני עברי הכביש. שעות רבות ביליתי מול אותו חלון, לוגם בירה חמה ובוהה בהוויה הסינית ממרחק בטחון.

הלילות היוו את גולת הכותרת של חווית ההתבוננות. חשכת הרחוב, תנועת הרכבים הערה והעובדה שרוכבי האופניים נהגו ללא תאורה, הבטיחו שלפחות אחת לשבוע חזיתי בתאונה. רובן היו בין מוניות לרוכבי אופניים כאשר הנטייה הסינית להתגודדות הכפילה את הסיכוי לתאונה נוספת; רוכב אופניים נפגע ממונית ומיד, רוכבי אופניים סקרנים מתגודדים סביבם; עוד מונית חולפת ופוגעת ברוכב אחר; שוב התגודדות ושוב אפשרות לתאונה נוספת. השיא האישי שלי עמד על שלוש תאונות במשך חמש דקות ואולם ארתורו היה זה שהחזיק בתואר עם חמש תאונות בארבע דקות…

גם שעות היום והערב סיפקו מדיי פעם חומר מעניין להתבוננות. לפחות פעמיים ישבנו מרותקים אל החלון בעוד סופת חול שועטת לעבר העיר, שותים ומביטים בענן הצהוב שורק ומכה ברחובות. הנטייה הסינית לשתיה עד אובדן חושים תרמה אף היא לעושרו של המחזה. קטטות לא מעטות פרצו בערבים, החלפת מהלומות שבדרך כלל צייתה למודל שלושת השלבים:

שלב ראשון – שני שיכורים מקימים מהומה באחת המסעדות, דחיפות, איומים ויציאה לרחוב. שלב שני – הקרב מתחיל. השניים חובטים האחד בשני ולא בוחלים בשימוש בכלי נשק מאולתרים, בדרך כלל כסאות, בקבוקים או בלאטות. שלב שלישי – קהל גדול של סקרנים מתגודד סביבם, תוחם את הניצים בזירה אנושית מעוגלת שמעולם לא התערבה בנעשה – כמונו, מביטים בחבטות ומזיזים את הזירה בשלמותה במידה והמחזה המשיך לנדוד במורד הרחוב.

שפע המסעדות שברחוב סיפק לטסה ולי עניין קולינרי לא מבוטל. אכלנו בכולן ולבסוף התבייתנו על אחת. אישה קטנה ויפיפייה בשם לינג ניהלה את המקום בצורה תרבותית ומסודרת. בישוליה היו תאווה לחך וללא תופעות לוואי עגומות, חיוכיה שובי לב וקולה רך ומתנגן. כבר בביקורנו הראשון אצלה, לינג הרשימה אותנו כשהגישה לנו אורז עם המנות שהזמנו ולא אחרי הארוחה – כפי שהיה נהוג בשאר המסעדות בהן ביקרנו בבייג'ינג.

"זה לא מכובד להגיש אורז עם הארוחה לאנשים עשירים," בראד הסביר לנו בימינו הראשונים בעיר.

"אבל אנחנו לא עשירים!" טסה התקוממה.

"אולי לא במערב, אבל פה זה עולם שלישי. בשביל הסיני הממוצע אתם בחזקת מליונרים."

עם חלוף הימים התיידדנו עם הגברת לינג ואף יצרנו למענה תפריט באנגלית, דבר שהקנה לה יתרון ממשי בתחרות המטורפת שהייתה בין המסעדות ברחוב.

הקרבה לארתורו וגיאר הובילה לידידות אמיצה. השניים, שהיו מבוגרים מאיתנו ביותר מעשור ושהו בסין כבר מספר חודשים, לקחו על עצמם את המשימה להנחות אותנו במקומנו החדש. גיאר, לדוגמא, הציגה בפנינו את שוק האיכרים שפעל שני בקרים בשבוע ושהיה ממוקם במגרש רחב ונטוש, מרחק הליכה קצרה מבניין מגורנו.

"הירקות שם טריים, טעימים וזולים," הסבירה גיאר.

"והם לא יטחנו לנו את הצורה עם המחיר?" שאלתי.

"לא אם תעמדו קרוב למוכרים. מספיק קרוב שהם יראו, שאתם רואים, כמה הלקוחות הסינים משלמים."

"וזה יעבוד?" טסה שאלה, הספקנות ניכרת בקולה.

"לא תמיד," גיאר הודתה. "לפעמים הם יעדיפו לא למכור מאשר לתת לך מוצרים במחיר של מקומי."

"גזענים!" קראתי וגיאר גיחכה.

"אתה מופתע?" היא שאלה.

"כמובן."

"אבל למה? אתה מכיר מישהו בעולמנו החולה שאיננו גזען?"

"לא ממש," הודיתי לאחר מחשבה קצרה. "כנראה שאני פשוט לא רגיל לבוטות הסינית."

"כן," גיאר הנהנה. "גם לי לא קל עם זה."

גיאר סיפרה כי ידיד שלה, בחור ספרדי הנשוי לסינית, סבל גם הוא מאותו יחס בזויי בזמן שהותו בסין.

"וכול זאת לעיני זוגתו הסינית," גיאר אמרה, "ובלי שום צל של בושה. כשאשתו התעמתה עם המקומיים הם סרבו לשנות את הגישה ואף נזפו בה על עמדתה. 'את אולי אשתו,' הם אמרו לה. 'אבל לפני הכול את סינית!'"

ארתורו וגיאר גם הציגו בפנינו את שלושת המסעדות המערביות בבייג'ינג – מקדונלדס, פיצה האט ומסעדה מקסיקנית קטנה וצנועה בניהול פרטי.

"אנחנו לא בקטע של החרא האמריקאי," גיאר האדימה כשהצענו ללכת ולטעום המבורגר. "מקדונלדס ופיצה האט זה גועל נפש. האוכל לא בריא, לא טעים ויקר. אני לא סובלת אמריקאים, הם כמו האוכל שלהם, עטיפה יפה מבחוץ וחרא מבפנים. העם האמריקאי…"

"אז מה עם המסעדה המקסיקנית?" קטעתי את הנאום המתלהם. "אנחנו מתגעגעים לאוכל מערבי. מה עם איזה חמור קטן בפיתה?"

"חמור בפיתה?" ארתורו כיווץ את גבותיו.

"בוריטו, זה חמור קטן, לא?"

ארתורו וגיאר לקחו אותנו למסעדה המקסיקנית ואף הזמינו אותנו לארוחת ערב ספרדית אוטנטית בדירתם.

"יין?" ארתורו שאל כשנכנסנו. הוא חייך כשטסה נענתה בשמחה ונראה מאוכזב כשביקשתי משקה קל.

"טוב, אז תביא יין," אמרתי. "אל תהיה כל כך עצוב."

"אני לא עצוב," ארתורו חייך והוביל אותנו למטבח. טסה התמקמה לצידה של גיאר שעמדה ובחשה בסיר קטן. קערות וצלוחיות קטנות, מלאות במגוון מאכלים, ניצבו על שולחן המטבח. בחנתי אותן באיטיות, פי מתמלא נוזלים כתגובה לצבעים ולניחוחות. עיניי נעצרו על קערה עמוסה בחומר לבן ומוקרם.

"זה מה שאני חושב שזה?" שאלתי.

"הגבינה?" ארתורו שאל.

"כן. מאיפה לכול הרוחות השגתם גבינה במדינה הזאת? בקושי יש להם חלב!"

"אני מכינה אותה," גיאר התערבה בשיחה. "כול מה שצריך זה חלב וחיידקי מעיים של פרה."

היא הסבירה את התהליך.

"מכניסים את החיידקים לחלב בלילה, ובבוקר, מעבירים את היוגורט שנוצר דרך מסננת אל תוך כלי מיועד. מה שנשאר על המסננת הם החיידקים אותם שומרים לפעם הבאה."

"איך שומרים אותם?" טסה חקרה.

"בתוך קצת חלב. כול עוד יש חלב הם לא ימותו."

"ואיך הופכים את היוגורט לגבינה?"

"מסננים את הנוזלים מהיוגורט דרך בד. זה תהליך שלוקח עוד לילה שלם. אם תרצי, אני אתן לך בקטריות ותוכלי להכין לבד."

השיחה בין הנשים קולחת וארתורו מסמן לי לבוא אחריו. הוא מוביל אותי לחדר עם שולחן קטן ושני כסאות.

"נתחבא כאן מהנשים," הוא אומר ולוקח לגימה הגונה מכוס היין.

"טעים?" אני שואל וארתורו מחייך בביישנות.

"אופס," הוא אומר. "מייד אשוב."

אני מתיישב על אחד הכיסאות ומחכה. ארתורו חוזר במהרה עם פחית קולה.

"מאיפה השגת את זה?"

"יש לי את המקורות שלי," ארתורו לוחש.

"אבל קולה זה מאמריקה," אני מעיר. "איך הכנסת את זה לפה מבלי שגיאר תוריד לך את הראש?"

"זה היה מוחבא במקפיא. תיגע ותראה כמה שזה קר."

"ארתורו," גיאר קוראת מהמטבח.

"אף מילה," הוא אומר, מגיש לי את הפחית ועוזב את החדר בהליכה מהירה.

הפחית מקפיאה את כף ידי ואני, שסולד בדרך כלל ממשקאות מוגזים, חש פתאום תשוקה עזה ללגום מהמשקה הקר. אני אוחז בלשונית, מושך אותה לאחור וזרם אדיר של נוזלים מתפרץ החוצה ברחש נוראי.

אני מסיט את הראש ברגע האחרון ומביט בחוסר אונים בעוד גייזר הקולה שבידי פוגע בתקרה ומתפזר לכול עבר ברסיסים תוססים.

"קפוץ על הפחית!" קול פנימי קורא לי. "אל תפקיר את ארתורו, גיאר תדע שזה קולה! בשם אלוהים, חייל, קפוץ!"

אבל אני לא זז לשום מקום והקולה ממשיכה לקלוח ללא הפרעה ולכסות כול חלקה יבשה בחדר. הזרם נחלש בהדרגה, כמה טיפות אחרונות ולבסוף אנחה מבעבעת.

כשארתורו חוזר, הוא נעצר בפתח ובוהה בי באימה. אני מחייך אליו בביישנות ומניח את הפחית הריקה על הרצפה. שערי, בגדי ועורי ספוגים בנוזל הכהה, קולה נוטפת מהתקרה וזולגת מהקירות אל האגם שנקווה מסביבי.

"התחרטתי," אני אומר. "בא לי מים."

החיוך נעלם מפני כשגיאר מופיעה לצידו של ארתורו. היא מעבירה את מבטה על החדר בעיניים קרועות לרווחה ונעצרת על הפחית שלרגלי. פניה מתעוותות בכעס והיא מסובבת את ראשה בחדות אל ארתורו.

"קולה?" היא מרימה את קולה והוא עוטה הבעת זעם דומה לשלה.

"אמריקה," הוא מהנהן ומצביע על הפחית. "רק צרות הם מביאים על העולם הזה."

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